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Eat My Words: We tried French restaurant Bistro Valerie at The Old Coach and Horses in Harbledown, near Canterbury
05:00, 12 October 2023
I could be accused of being ignorant of French cuisine and culture, despite my insistence Pixar’s 2007 film Ratatouille is a work of art underappreciated by the masses.
I’ve simply never found the idea of mussels and snails appealing.
But on a fantastically gorgeous Saturday evening in Harbledown, near Canterbury, I’m excited to try one of Kent’s newest eateries.
Bistro Valerie – offering a full traditional French menu – has just opened at The Old Coach and Horses pub in the village.
I must admit I’m not quite sure what to expect or what I’ll even be brave enough to order.
Our booking is for 6.30pm and when we arrive it’s eerily quiet – our arrival doubles the number of people present in the main bar area.
But upstairs is where we will dine for the night, with elegant crimson red and various pieces of art adorning the walls. Subtle lighting and half-melted candles add to the gentle atmosphere.
It’s just as quiet here too – we’re the only customers to begin with – though this is actually to our benefit as it allows for a far more intimate start to the meal.
I stare at the menu, knowing full well I should push the boat out and try something new, while also knowing my girlfriend will order more traditional food which I can sample.
For starters, I opt for the garlic prawn skewer. My partner chooses the chicken liver parfait, served with red onion chutney.
Coming out on a slate rather than a plate, the bronzed prawns glisten under the candlelight and look fit to burst.
So fresh I can still see them swimming, they almost explode in my mouth as I bite into them – a herby, not-too-fishy, but deliciously juicy treat.
I sample the parfait too and I’m pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoy the smooth, rich meaty flavour of the spread. It’s effortless to devour.
The only fault in this course would be a lack of bread – but given the size of the filet mignon that comes out of the kitchen, that might have actually been a saving grace.
Two five-ounce, chargrilled prime cuts of medallion cooked to medium-rare perfection arrive at our table, with confit potatoes and a piping hot peppercorn sauce.
The meal is clearly off to a winner when people stop and stare when the waiter brings it out of the kitchen, with a gent sat next to me ogling the food.
By this point, as you can tell, the bistro has welcomed a few more people now and it’s satisfying to see our fellow diners also lapping up the meals that come their way.
My knife glides through the meat as if it were butter and each bite is flavoursome, perfectly seasoned and tender.
As for the other main course, the mussels slosh around an interesting little pot and I find the technique of using the shells to eat them rather fascinating.
But now it’s time for the taste test. I clench my eyes, ready to recoil in horror the second the moule hits my mouth – with hands firmly on a glass of Pepsi to wash away the taste.
Instead, in what has become a recurring theme of this piece and my dining experience, I find myself surprised and even savouring something I would usually never have given the time of day.
A creamy white wine sauce complements the slightly salty, tender mussel meat and nothing about the assortment lets it down – the balance is brilliant.
Though I have nothing to compare it to, my partner reassures me this is top-quality food – high praise all around.
Throughout the night the possibility of dessert has almost taunted us, but the truth is I’m adequately satiated and anything else would tip me over the edge.
But despite only managing two courses, I have to say how impressed I am by French cuisine and how the chefs here have brought that slice of Paris to Harbledown.
I’ve gone from being afraid of anything that might rock the boat to wishing I’d been braver – a lesson learned for next time.
I’m by no means a regular fine diner but I’ve been lucky enough to eat out all across the country. Yet right here on my doorstep is the best restaurant I’ve ever been to in the UK.
It beats a visit to Folkestone’s Rocksalt and it completely blows dining experiences at The Shard in London out of the water.
In fact, I’d go as far as to say it’s in my top three favourites across the globe (though it doesn’t quite have me in a chokehold like Restoran Porto in Podgorica, Montenegro).
I don’t quite know the ins and outs of how the Michelin Guide works – but I wouldn’t be surprised at all to see it feature Bistro Valerie at some point in the future.
The sooner the better as far as I’m concerned. This place deserves a lot more attention and having been open for little more than a month, the future is very exciting.
Ratings out of five
Food: It was a truly tasty experience and there is a good range on the menu without being overwhelming *****
Drink: Pepsi’s and a Strawberry Daiquiri aren’t really as French as the food but they do the job and there’s a fantastic range for those more sophisticated than me *****
Decor: I’ve only been to Paris a few times, all of them as a child, so I can’t compare it to the real thing, but I found it to be charming and clean, which is all you can really ask for *****
Staff: The two teenage waiting staff were keen to impress but carried a fine air of composure about them. They’re a credit to the owner *****
Price: With the meal costing £81, it’ll be a luxury for many families and some will be priced out altogether. However, for the quality of food, the price tag is justified ****
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