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Eat My Words: Review of Palms Pizzeria on Wincheap Industrial Estate in Canterbury
05:00, 03 June 2023
updated: 09:38, 03 June 2023
With the proliferation of so-called ghost kitchens - dodgy takeaways operating out of warehouses and storage units - you’d be forgiven for being suspicious of a pizzeria serving from an industrial estate brewery.
But when I braved a trip down to Palms Pizzeria in Canterbury, tucked between a trade carpentry supplier and an outlet selling “tools and fixings”, I was pleasantly surprised.
Despite being in the warehouse of a working brewery, the walls lined with gleaming metal distilleries towering above my head, the atmosphere is welcoming.
The business only serves their “giant” 20 inch ‘zas Friday to Saturday, and ahead of my visit I was feeling somewhat uncomfortable eating my meal alone in a cavernously empty warehouse.
Surprised again, I arrived to find tables full of people and a pleasant hubbub only enhanced by the unobtrusive but effortlessly cool playlist of hip hop and indie pop.
Greeted by colourful block prints of a tiger frolicking with a butterfly and an array of lush greenery I began to realise I had entered the home turf of the hipster.
My intuition proved correct when I went to order and was faced with the carefully groomed facial hair of music manager and pizzeria co-owner Stuart Clarke.
Stuart set up the business with one of his music industry contacts after finding himself missing New York-style slices once he had returned home from the Big Apple, with this being his second branch after the success of the firm’s Margate location.
While Stuart manned the pizza oven, another member of staff took my order.
I didn’t need to spend long mulling over my options, as the “friendly neighbourhood slice shack” as it refers to itself, offers just six options - one of which being vegan.
I considered the Fennel Sausage, which features tenderstem broccoli, but ultimately elected the Truffle ‘Shroom and the Spam and Pineapple.
As I watched my truly huge slices were individually warmed and garnished by the staff and I began to feel concerned I had taken on more than I could chew, as I took in for the first time that each piece of pizza was bigger than my head.
In the very brief period of time I spent waiting for them to prepare my order I pondered my decision to opt for the no doubt intentionally contrary Spam and Pineapple.
Generally a fan of pineapple on pizza, and of the view that the detractors should probably grow up and try something new, I wondered if adding tinned pork was a step too far?
Promptly I was handed my pizza on paper plate lined with custom wax paper printed with the potentially grotesque image of a cartoon pizza cannibalistically consuming a slice of his own flesh.
This didn’t put me off and I looked around the airy dining room portion of the warehouse for a place to sit.
Making my way past the groups sneaking away from work for a lunchtime pint from Floc Brewery, which shares the space, I found myself at a table just outside.
Despite essentially sitting in the loading bay of the kitchen carpentry firm next door, it was a pleasant place to sit.
Although overcast on the day I visited I found it easy to imagine a summer evening spent there, likely arguing over the rightful position of pineapple as a pizza topping.
The bright orange benches were clean, fairly comfortable and the whole seating area felt tidy and attractive despite being located in an industrial estate car park.
Once I tucked into my slices, I discovered the benefit of the benches location as I found some light entertainment to accompany my meal in watching the workmen from the furniture warehouse next door expertly tetris their goods into a waiting van.
My pizza glistened, lightly slicked with cheesy oil as I took my first few bites and was immediately hit with a wave of gratitude towards myself from 20 minutes ago who greedily ordered two slices.
New York-style pizza is characterised by its large hand-formed thin crust and its tendency to be sold in wide slices rather than as a whole pie.
Having seen it on TV many times, I was excited to give it a try and even tried my hand at the classic fold-in-half-to-fit-in-gob technique.
First I tackled the Truffle ‘Shroom, which has a white base, wild mushrooms, truffle oil, fior di latte, parsley and lemon zest.
Never before in my life have I eaten a slice of pizza and found myself thinking ‘if only they had zested a lemon on this before handing it over’.
Now I may never eat another slice without that thought again, so perhaps I should mark them down for making every future pizza I ever encounter just a little disappointing.
The lemon zest added a bright, sweet joyful zing to the slice, and the white base brought a delightful creaminess.
On to the Spam and Pineapple, which I’m aware many would approach with trepidation but I was up for the challenge and raring to go.
The Spam slice is advertised as containing charred pineapple, fior di latte, parmesan, spam, parsley and jalapeños.
After my first bite I knew I’d found the slice for me, the salt from the Spam combined with spice from the pepper followed by the relief of the rush of sweet pineapple juice.
Truly my only complaint was the first slice lemon zest revelation left me missing that bright pop of flavour on the second.
In spite of my initial misgivings Palms Pizzeria served me up delicious pizza, accompanied by unfussy fast service and the Floc Brewery taproom provided a chilled but funky atmosphere to enjoy it in.
The next time you fancy a slice, look beyond the same old chains and try something new even if you have to take a few steps off the beaten track and onto the industrial estate to do so.
Ratings out of five:
Food: One of my favourite slices I’ve ever eaten and may affect all my future pizza eating experiences ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Drink: N/A - Palms Pizzeria doesn’t actually serve any drinks, assuming their customers will be happy with what Floc Brewery has to offer. I’m sure those with palates more sophisticated than mine, which can’t tell any beer from a pint of gutter water, could find something to enjoy from their extensive menu of fresh craft beers
Decor: Clean, bright and airy with a good amount of large leaved greenery to distract from the fact you are in a working warehouse ★ ★ ★ ★
Staff: Friendly, relaxed but unfussy service. As someone who isn’t the biggest fan of human interaction understated utilitarian communication is exactly what I’m looking for ★ ★ ★ ★
Price: £9 for two slices of pizza might not seem like a deal at face value but they are huge! If I went for lunch again I’d likely only get a single slice making it a very reasonable and delicious option. Also if you were to order a whole pizza from them it would cost around £26, the same price as a large Domino's pizza but the chain’s large is just 13.5 inches compared to Palms’ 20 inches ★ ★ ★ ★ ★
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