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Eat My Words: Review of new Po'Boys sandwich shop in Canterbury High Street

05:00, 22 September 2022

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As far as new establishments needed on the high street go, another fast food place probably isn't top on most people’s lists.

But I’m never one to knock it 'till I try it, and a Canterbury restaurant named after a classic Louisiana dish is an eye-catcher, so I visited Po’Boys to see how they stack up on taste.

I greatly enjoyed my "The Classic" sandwich of fried shrimp, spiced remoulade and fresh salad
I greatly enjoyed my "The Classic" sandwich of fried shrimp, spiced remoulade and fresh salad

Strolling down the busy street, it’s easy to miss the corner sandwich shop, which opened in June.

Signless and painted black all over, the only giveaway is an A-board hand-chalked with the words: “PoBoy’s for Everyone”.

As I stepped inside I was greeted with a smiling face and invited to take a seat wherever I’d like.

I made my way though the dining room, scanning the menu hand-written on a blackboard above the counter.

Po'Boys is a recent addition to Canterbury High Street, it's easy to miss, but you won't want to miss out
Po'Boys is a recent addition to Canterbury High Street, it's easy to miss, but you won't want to miss out

I noticed not only do they have a kids menu, but they also serve a number of freshly-made dog treats.

Not five minutes after I sat down, a cheerful server named Ruby came over to tell me about the sammies on offer and take my order.

“Each sandwich”, she explained, “is inspired by the food from a different place.”

Marinated beef brisket on “The Texan”, Katsu sauce for “The Japanese”, pesto on “The Italian” - you get the idea.

I was impressed by the diversity of the menu, but I had my heart set on the eatery’s namesake, which they refer to simply as “The Original”.

“Would you please tell me more about the food you serve?” I asked.

“We get all of our ingredients locally and all of our meat is Halal, we bake our bread fresh here every morning,” Ruby answered.

Each sandwich at Po'Boys is based on the cuisine of a different place
Each sandwich at Po'Boys is based on the cuisine of a different place

While I waited for my food to arrive, I took in the atmosphere.

I didn’t have to wait long at all, but to be brutally honest I still had time to kill after soaking in the decor.

The bones of the building are beautiful; exposed beams and brickwork, hardwood floors.

But the decorating is kitsch and basic.

To the right of my table hung a frame filled with the words: “Eat, drink and be happy” in large calligraphic type.

Further along the wall, a wooden ornament imitating a US interstate highway sign headed with the words “Today is:”, displayed yesterday’s date; overhead speakers delivered a steady stream of very American soft rock - Sweet Home Alabama, We Didn’t Start the Fire, American Pie, and so on.

The place was clean and tidy but lacked any feeling, and after spending more than a few minutes seated on the un-cushioned metal chair, so did my behind.

Child and dog-friendly options at Po'Boys in Canterbury High Street
Child and dog-friendly options at Po'Boys in Canterbury High Street

Having said that, the restaurant staff more than made up for it with exceptionally attentive and bubbly service.

My food arrived on a metal tray lined with wax paper, and it looked great.

Light bounced off a shiny brioche bun aside a small bucket overflowing with golden chips.

A Po’Boy, is a traditional sandwich from the Deep South featuring fried seafood or roast beef.

Mine was spread with a spiced remoulade and chock-full of lightly-breaded shrimp, lettuce and tomato.

Having lived in the US for a decade, I’ve had my fair share of Po’Boy sandwiches, and this one’s right up there with the best I’ve tasted.

A tasty sandwich, chips, salad and a drink made for a delightful lunch
A tasty sandwich, chips, salad and a drink made for a delightful lunch

In a word, it was balanced.

A sweet soft bun gives way to a medley of cream and crunch - tangy mayonnaise cutting through the distinctive umami of seafood with the crisp bite of fresh salad rounding off every mouthful.

Although each bite contained a variety of flavours, not a single one dominated.

The succulent shrimp was perfectly coated with a crust of spices and elegantly complimented by a sauce of garlic, paprika and a dash of chilli.

A small side of coleslaw provided a nice palate cleanser, chips were on-point - well seasoned, crisp on the outside, soft and steaming-hot on the inside.

I cleaned that tray like nobody’s business.

What I liked about eating at Po’Boys, which also sells coffee drinks and fresh pastries, was that even though the service was fast, and people were constantly coming in and out picking up food to go, the place still felt relaxed and welcoming.

Ruby was a charming and helpful server
Ruby was a charming and helpful server

I think the server, Ruby had a lot to do with that. Whether she was speaking to a customer, a co-worker or an UberEats delivery driver, she was constantly smiling and seemed to be really enjoying her job.

I felt so at-ease after my meal, I absent-mindedly walked straight out of the place without paying.

After I realised my mistake of course I returned to pay my bill - which was modest - and in chatting to the waitress, revealed that I was a food critic writing a review for KentOnline.

“You know, I thought so - you were asking so many questions,” said Ruby.

“I told the owner 'there’s something curious about this guy - he’s either going to con the business somehow or write up an article'.”

Inadvertently I almost did both.

“Can you just tell me, is it going to be a good review?” she asked.

“Absolutely yes,” I replied.

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Ratings out of five:

Food: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ - My sandwich and chips tasted awesome and I received a satisfying portion.

Drink: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ - There’s a broad variety of cool drinks, teas and Illy coffee drinks, bonus points for latte art.

Decor: ★ ★ - The place is clean as a whistle, but the decorating and seating is a let-down.

Staff: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ - Ruby was a polite, attentive and friendly server who didn’t even get mad when I forgot to pay. If there were a sixth star, it would be well deserved.

Price: ★ ★ ★ ★ - £12.90 for a sizeable sandwich made with high-quality, local ingredients, a good handful of chips, a small side salad and an Appletiser - I’m happy to pay that.

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