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Eat My Words: We review Everest Spice Fusion in Cheriton High Street, Folkestone
05:00, 18 August 2022
Here in Cheriton we are incredibly proud of our links with Nepal and the world-renowned Gurkha soldiers that Himalayan nation provides for the British Army.
Since the men of the Royal Gurkha Rifles were first stationed at the Sir John Moore Barracks in Folkestone back in 2000, the town has witnessed the growth of a thriving Nepalese community which has added great vibrancy to its adopted home.
As with any diaspora community, one of the great gifts has been food. Folkestone is now home to a number of great places to explore and enjoy the cooking of Nepal.
The cuisine is influenced by the food of neighbouring India and Tibet, a contested region of China, so there are dishes which will be recognisable to first-time British diners. But there are also plenty of traditional Nepalese dishes which certainly reward those prepared to try something new.
Everyone will have their favourite spot for a plate of momos - the much-loved Nepali steamed dumplings - and local stalwarts include Gurkha Palace, Annapurna and Himalayan Cafe.
If you ask me, however, I'd lead you to the door of Everest Spice Fusion in the heart of Cheriton on the High Street.
What I love about this place, almost as much as the tasty grub they knock up in the kitchen out back, is the unique atmosphere and blend of characters among the regulars.
In fact, it could be argued this was a job for our very own Secret Drinker, because in many ways Everest is as much a watering hole as it is a place to grab a bite to eat.
Wander into the place and you are just as likely to find tables of drinkers sinking the beers while watching the football on the big screen as you are big groups of Gurkha soldiers eagerly tucking into dishes giving them a much-needed taste of home.
For those of us who enjoy catching the big match, a meal packed with flavour and wallet-friendly beers - pints here start at £3.50 - this place is pretty much the sweet spot.
The room is small. There are usually around six tables, but these are regularly moved and re-configured to accommodate the varying groups of diners and drinkers who drop in as the night progresses.
Decoration is minimal. Large windows on two sides look out onto Cheriton High Street, and at the rear is the bar - usually manned by the genial Beg, who keeps drinks coming when not ferrying dishes in and out of the kitchen.
Grabbing a menu, you'll find all the classic Nepalese specialities on offer.
Before we dive in I'd like to offer two pieces of advice. First, don't be shy about taking a look at what others are eating, especially the lads from the barracks. If something catches your eye, Beg will be more than happy to explain what it is they're cooking up.
Second, and perhaps most importantly, be prepared for some variation in the heat of the dishes you receive. The Nepalese like their food with a kick, and this is home-style cooking, so even a dish done 'medium' can still pack a punch.
If you're usually one for a korma at the curry house then you might want to tread carefully at first.
Because Everest is, for the regulars, as much a place to come for a drink and a catch up with friends, it is not uncommon for people to order a selection of dishes rather than something closer to the starter-main-dessert combo you might look for elsewhere.
A great place to start is with a plate of chatpate. This is a popular snack in Nepal, made with a base of puffed rice and dried noodles mixed with freshly-chopped tomatoes, red onion and cucumber, and finished with spices and green peppers. A perfect opener to excite the palate, but super light so you'll definitely be hungry for more.
At this point I'd probably suggest it's time for momos. Many cultures have their signature dumpling - think wonton in Chinese cuisine, or the Polish pierogi - and the momo is an iconic dish you'll find on just about every Nepalese menu.
Usually stuffed with a filling of chicken, pork or vegetables, they are often served steamed with a tangy chutney for dipping.
My preferred version is chilli momo, fried in a pan with a spicy tomato-based sauce that packs a fiery kick. As I mentioned earlier, this is not one to ask for 'Gurkha hot' if you are faint-hearted when it comes to heat.
Your reviewer tends to request it cooked 'medium' but such is the character of the kitchen that even this less-intense option has left me mopping my brow.
On this particular visit we also tried paneer chilli, cheese cooked in a hot sweet and sour sauce, and a more mellow dish of honey chicken which we had with a paratha flatbread perfect for dipping and mopping up the delightful sauce.
Pork belly and onion bhajis are also known to be crowd-pleasers, although one regular advises placing your order for the pork as soon as you set foot through the door, such is the freshness and the time taken for preparation.
Although I don't think anyone who dines here really minds waiting a bit longer for the kitchen to do its thing.
It's a laid back kind of place, the atmosphere and the crowd varies every time you visit, and hopefully if you try it you'll find it a spot you'd happily linger a while longer over another cold pint.
The food is fantastic, and table after table of hungry Gurkhas happily scoffing down a true taste of home is all the evidence you need.
Out of five:
Food: If you enjoy Indian or Chinese food, but have never eaten Nepalese, you won't go wrong here. Fresh, fiery and packed with flavour *****
Drink: Evidence of previous visits suggests cold pints of lager are the tipple of choice, and at £3.50 a pop you can see why this place draws a crowd ***
Decor: It's basic, definitely more cafe (or mess hall) than restaurant, but this is a place that gets buzzing when it's packed out ***
Staff: Never without a smile and a warm welcome, Beg orchestrates front of house with great charm. Always happy to switch over to the sports action of choice *****
Price: Everything is keenly priced. Affordable pints draw a drinking crowd, and the food is great value for its freshness and flavour ****
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