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Kent Michelin Guide restaurants including Rocksalt and Hide and Fox react to shock closure of The Brasserie MS

05:00, 15 March 2023

updated: 12:17, 16 March 2023

The bosses of three of Kent's top-rated restaurants have cut spending and even changed their menus as the cost-of-living crisis continues to bite.

Those running some of the county's swankiest venues - where dining out doesn't come cheap - say they have been forced to "adapt" to the harsh economic climate.

Mark Sargeant closed his Folkestone restaurant The Brasserie MS after just six months
Mark Sargeant closed his Folkestone restaurant The Brasserie MS after just six months

It comes in the wake of celebrity chef Mark Sargeant's decision to close The Brasserie MS in Folkestone due to “tough trading conditions” - just six months after launching.

Alex Yates - whose restaurant Bowleys at The Plough in Trottiscliffe, West Malling, is in the Michelin Guide - says "any business would be terrified" by the news.

“It’s a very scary thought especially looking at someone like Mark Sergeant, whose repertoire is huge - he’s an incredible chef,” he told KentOnline.

Alex Yates, left, with Alison Prountzos and Les Hutchison, both of the Trottiscliffe Community Benefit Society, outside Bowleys at The Plough in West Malling
Alex Yates, left, with Alison Prountzos and Les Hutchison, both of the Trottiscliffe Community Benefit Society, outside Bowleys at The Plough in West Malling

“As a new restaurant, we nearly went the same way. The first year is just awful."

The Plough's à la carte menu offers main courses such as roasted partridge for £28.75 and sirloin steak for £36 and Mr Yates admits potential customers are feeling the pinch.

“It’s not just the cost for the business that affects things, it’s trying to get the customers in because people don’t have enough money - they’re having to save up and eat out less," he said.

Mr Yates, who runs the community-owned restaurant with his dad, estimates as many as 125 investors, mostly local people, have put money into the building.

The head chef says the input of those living nearby has been vital to the business' success as they have regularly visited the restaurant and "helped build some atmosphere during quiet patches".

In a bid to remain in the black, he launched home cooking kits during the pandemic, and will now hold local wine and cheese tasting events.

Rocksalt in Folkestone is one of the most famous restaurants in Kent
Rocksalt in Folkestone is one of the most famous restaurants in Kent

“The industry is struggling, but the only way to get through that is adapting," said Mr Yates, who has previously worked with Rick Stein and cooked for Queen Elizabeth II.

"I feel we have done that very well, and over the past three years we’ve grown.”

Popular seaside restaurant Rocksalt's à la carte menu includes Folkestone ray wing for £25.50 and baked plaice on the bone for £28.50.

Owner Josh De Haan admits they have had to make changes to the way the site is run.

The restaurateur - and son of business tycoon Sir Roger - opened the premises in 2011 with Mark Sergeant, who walked out two years ago after the pair experienced “unresolvable difficulties”.

Josh De Haan owns Rocksalt in Folkestone. Picture: Rocksalt Group
Josh De Haan owns Rocksalt in Folkestone. Picture: Rocksalt Group

“We are confident with the future of the business, especially as customers still seem eager to dine and drink with us," Mr De Haan told KentOnline.

“Like many, we are having to work harder to adapt our business which is being affected by the cost-of-living crisis.

“We continue to work closely with our local suppliers to source and select produce that offer good value.

“This may mean sacrificing certain products that have had considerable cost increases, but by doing so it still allows us to offer good value and not pass on continual price increases to our customers.”

The 48-year-old says he has looked into using energy-saving technology and adapting "opening times during off-peak seasons".

Couple Allister Barsby and Alice Bussi own the Hide and Fox restaurant in Hythe. Picture: Karuna Clayton
Couple Allister Barsby and Alice Bussi own the Hide and Fox restaurant in Hythe. Picture: Karuna Clayton

Offering the restaurant's use of lobster as an example, he stresses that Rocksalt is altering its menu to help cut costs, refusing to ship the meal in from thousands of miles away.

He also says he is “driven to use local and seasonal products”, while “increasing the share of veg-based dishes”.

“With the hike in energy bills, post-pandemic and after Brexit we are having to cost and re-cost on a more regular basis to ensure our business continues to run successfully,” Mr De Haan added.

“Accolades such as listings in the Michelin Guide are great for adding to the overall picture of the business and getting the name out there, but it is consistency and quality that protect the business.

“Everyone is in the same situation so businesses are just doing what they can to cope and continue to attract and serve customers as best they can.”

Award-winning manager and sommelier Alice Bussi runs Hide and Fox in Hythe
Award-winning manager and sommelier Alice Bussi runs Hide and Fox in Hythe

Alice Bussi runs the Hide and Fox with head chef Allister Barsby, which offers five-course tasting menus for £75 (plus wine pairing for £60) and eight courses for £105 (with wine pairing for £75).

Having taken over the business in June 2019, the restaurant was awarded its Michelin star in 2021.

And Ms Bussi thinks you do not "need to be worried [of the economic crisis], but definitely be aware of it".

"We’ve seen an effect on our revenue margins, but we have to keep doing what we’re doing and maintain standards," she explained.

“We opened nine months before the pandemic, we went through Brexit and now the current economic crisis, so there’s always something. You can’t just become comfortable with who you are and what you do as a business because the future is unpredictable.

“If you give a guest a nice experience, something special, they will come back..."

The Italian-born manager of the restaurant acknowledges the impact being on the Michelin Guide has on the business.

She says it "definitely plays a part in attracting customers".

“But showing your clientele and your guests that you can keep doing what you do, both in terms of consistency and delivery, is everything," she continued.

“If you give a guest a nice experience, something special, they will come back.

"We’ll keep doing what we do while staying aware of what’s going on and it’s important to reinvest money into the business to improve the facilities and look after the team.”

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