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Bruges offers 2,000 types of beer - and a whole lot more

12:00, 02 April 2012

updated: 17:28, 08 June 2021

The medieval part of the city of Bruges
The medieval part of the city of Bruges

My love of Belgium’s brews first developed as a professional curiosity during a former life spent working as the manager of a pub-restaurant.

Needless to say it has since developed into a healthy recreational pastime.

And with an estimated 2,000 varieties to sample, my quest to discover the hidden delights of each unique beverage will no doubt form the work of a lifetime.

From the faintly golden and amber through to the richly dark, Belgium has a beer to cater to every taste. But with an average strength of between 7 and 9%, moderation is key to enjoyment.

My journey to the homeland of my favourite foaming thirst-quencher began with a surprisingly short voyage across the familiar waters of the English Channel. My destination was the unfamiliar port of Dunkirk, a mere 60 minute drive from my ultimate destination, Bruges.

Travelling with DFDS Seaways, a relatively new addition to the port of Dover’s ferry operators, was a hassle-free experience, made all the more convenient with a paid upgrade allowing first-on first-off boarding and access to a well-stocked VIP lounge.

The first destination on my whistle-stop tour was the quaint town of Poperinge – known as the hop capital of Belgium – where my charming host Benedicte Coutigny escorted me on a fascinating tour of the family’s working hop farm, before leading a rousing rendition of a traditional Flemish drinking song, accompanied by accordion.

Upon arriving in Bruges itself, some 20 minutes after leaving the farmland of Poperinge, the first thing which drew my attention was the beauty of the city’s medieval architecture.

The variety and quality of the food on offer in many of the shops which occupy these buildings also struck me.

Every other vendor, it seemed, displayed cheeses, wines, meats – and of course, chocolates – as well as other appetising wares of a size and quality that would embarrass any UK supermarket.

And the staggering range of beers on offer – particularly in the restaurants I visited, where beers were selected to accompany each dish as London’s finest restaurants select their wines – left me feeling like the proverbial child in a sweet-shop.

Benedicte Coutigny's hop farm in Bruges
Benedicte Coutigny's hop farm in Bruges

On my second day I was treated to a walking tour of the ancient city care of Eric, a representative of Tourism Bruges, and a more informative and humorous guide I could not have wished for.

My afternoon was spent touring the facilities of De Halve Maan, or half-moon, the oldest brewery in Bruges, which dates from the 16th century.

While the kit used has moved on apace over the centuries, the ethos of the brewing processes – developed by six generations of the same family– has remained the same.

A tall chilled glass of their golden-blonde Brugse Zot – fool of Bruges – was the perfect way to round off my visit before heading home.

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