Rediscover Calais was the message. I got it.

I accepted an invitation - and found a few surprises in a town I have visited many times over the years.

In fact, the thought crossed my mind that I might have barely scratched the surface of what's what in this busy Channel port and the surrounding area - Calais Cote d'Opale.

This is much more than a way station for travellers heading south to the sun, and the powers-that-be are now laying out the market stalls to show once again that it is a tourist destination in its own right, whether for short breaks or longer stays.

In the aftermath of the demise of duty free and amid various financial wobbles, the town authorities, led by the mayor Natacha Bouchart, got together with hoteliers, restaurant owners, cross-Channel travel operators and others to launch a campaign to encourage more visitors, particularly from the UK, to stay a while and have a look around.

The welcome mat is out in a place rich in history, culture and architecture (http://www.calais.fr/ or http://www.mairie-calais.fr/).

Entertainment? There are so many leisure activities, all within easy reach, to keep the most demanding families happy. Plenty of nightlife too with bars, clubs and a casino.

Shopping, from the cheap and cheerful to the chic and upmarket, is still a big draw and, perhaps not foremost in everyone's thoughts after the recent winter, there are also magnificent beaches on the doorstep.

At present, parts of the town are undergoing a make-over - due to be completed later this year - giving a new perspective to the area around one of the main streets, the Rue Royale, and the adjoining square, Place d'Armes.

A work in progress in keeping with the drive to give Calais a boost.

I went to the launch of the message with a few like-thinking travellers and we waited for the inevitable French speeches. They can go on.

In this case, however, we were in luck. They didn't, perhaps because the venue was a mini wine festival showcasing some of the country's finest. We managed to sample a few.

Later, we also sampled the offerings of one of the town's many restaurants, La Sole Meuniere.

A tasty surprise. Where in the UK would you get a gourmet starter followed by sole fillets in a delicate sauce, cheese, glorious dessert and coffee for about £20? What you spend on the wine is your choice.

Another surprise came the following day when we went to the iconic town hall, symbol of Calais.

It was built to mark the joining of Calais with the adjacent town of Saint Pierre.

I have been to the building often - using the place as a meeting point; somewhere to talk to tourism officials; or perhaps just to use the big free car park so that I could go to the nearby theatre or glorious food shops.

I had not been beyond the foyer, but this time we got the guided tour. It was eye-opening.

There is ornate timber panelling and glimpses of art and history everywhere.

Just a few steps up from the entrance there is another symbol, the superb stained glass window showing six of the town's former prominent citizens surrendering to English King Richard lll in the 14th century.

The English held Calais for more than 200 years. The unfortunate burghers were due to be executed by Richard, who had been frustrated by a long siege, but his wife successfully pleaded on their behalf.

Images of them can be seen in various spots in the town. Perhaps the most notable and striking figures are in the commanding sculpture by Rodin in the museum of fine arts.

One of the finest landmarks in Calais is the town hall - Hotel de Ville - completed in 1925. See above, an inset of the iconic clock and belfry

We could have wandered around the town hall for ages, but the highlight was going up to the belfry with its superb views of the surrounding landmarks - and the parts that are now being redeveloped to include prominent new features.

Access to the belfry was made possible last year and I am assured that on a fine day it is possible to see Dover. The weather restricted us to more of a close-up.

Energetic folk can climb to the top of the tower by the stairs - a lot of steps - but we took the lift.

Next stop, that museum of fine arts - and you could spend a day there, taking in wide-ranging themes of absorbing collections including significant contemporary art from the UK.

The town prides itself on its art, history and innovation.

Take a look at places like the international lace and fashion centre, the church of Notre Dame, now being restored, the parks and gardens. There is no shortage of information on the notable sights. You just need time to take it all in.

To help you get around the town centre there are free mini buses that you can catch at the yellow Balad'in bus stops.

The service is frequent, about every 10 minutes, and the buses run from 9am to 7pm, Monday to Saturday.

We had to move on, in the process helping out a couple of exiled Brits in our group. They had moved home to northern France and were keen to discover the good eating spots in Calais.

They had whetted their appetites the night before and found more to savour in the family-run Histoire Ancienne in Rue Royale. They'll be back. Again, a splendid meal for about 27 euros.

This is among several fine restaurants, such as the Aquar'aile, Le Grand Bleu, Au Cote d'Argent and, my own favourite, Le Restaurant Channel to name just a few. The town also has a wide choice of cafes and bistros, most with children's menus.

Cite Europe, near Calais, offers plenty of good deals

The range of places to stay is just as extensive - guest houses with b&b, hotels at various rates, gites and camping sites.

We stayed at the new Ibis-Styles Hotel in Calais centre. It's minimalist in design, bright and comfortable with rooms from 69 euros, including breakfast and WiFi.

The tourist office can provide accommodation details and general information about the town and wider afield.

Cross-Channel operators often have offers on fares and it's worth checking for special promotions. We travelled with P&O Ferries, enjoying lunch in the Brasserie on the way out and relaxing in the Club Lounge where you can get a complementary glass of Champagne and free tea and coffee.

Family fare and snacks are also available in the International Food Hall. Plenty of shopping bargains to be had on board too.

There is a spring offer for day trips booked by April 30 for travel by May 10.

The fare for a car and up to nine passengers is from £23 (£28 on Saturdays) and that includes six free bottles of wine and a voucher for 'two for the price of one' meals (breakfast or fish and chips) in the International Food Court.

Longer stay fares are from £35 each way for a car and up to nine passengers, except during the summer peak. Access to the Club Lounge costs £12 per person booked in advance or £14 on board.

Priority loading is £12 and Club Plus (Club with priority loading) is £18. Pet fares are £15 each way and pets must stay in the car on the vehicle deck.