It is 5am on a freezing Austrian morning, and a bitter wind is chilling my bones.

But as I start to dream about the cosy bed I've just reluctantly left, the sun puts on a display so spectacular that time seems to freeze.

I look around me, and nature is on display, peacock-style. But instead of feathers, Austria offers a plumage of wild Alpine flowers, a sunrise of tangerine hues, snow-capped Alpine peaks and views that roll into infinity.

We are staying at a mountain hut near the peak of the Kitzbuheler Horn - the accommodation may be basic but the views are five star.

Visitors to Kitzbuhel in Austria can stop off at these huts, which vary in comfort, as they hike across the spectacular mountain ranges around the centuries-old city.

For this is where tourists need to shake off all preconceptions about the Tyrolean hotspot - that it is a winter resort for snowboarders and skiers.

Yes, it is. But it is so much more. In summer it becomes a hiker's paradise, where ski passes and salopettes are swapped for walking poles and sun cream. And don't forget that sun factor - while we were there the thermometer nudged 38 degrees!

But the hidden wonder of Kitzbuhel is that the spectacular hikes, which form the backbone of any Alpine summer trip, are free.

Our guides, Engelbert and Madeleine, love their jobs - and why shouldn't they? They organise daily walks that take hikers through dazzling mountain ranges, sun-dappled woodlands and Alpine meadows.

The hikes vary in difficulty, averaging around five hours with stops for lunch. The guides ensure stragglers are looked after, but serious hikers get a workout and enough fresh air to fill 100 lungs.

Breathtaking

Our tours centred around the mountain huts at Hornkopfl and Oberaigen. While the walks can be strenuous at times, the breathtaking scenery from the Kitzbuheler Horn, the Bichlalm and across to the area's highest peak, the Grosglockner, make every sweaty step and tentative toe-hold worth it.

Austria has cliches in spades: yes, the cows have bells and the scenery looks like something out of a Heidi freeze-frame. And yes, there are men who actually wear lederhosen on a daily basis.

But if your dream holiday is less kiss-me-quick hats and more scenery that would defy any photographer to take a bad snap, then Kitzbuhel is for you.

Just when you have ticked off the gondola ride and eaten your third helping of strange noodles and believe you know the area, Kitzbuhel throws you a curve ball.

It is also a Mecca for sophisticates and golfers.

Not short of a few bob, the city attracts leisure lovers for spa breaks and golfing championships.

Hotels such as ours, the Kitzhof, offer a relaxed luxury, with a magnificent setting and comfortable spa. The nearby Grand Tirolia offers even greater opulence, with a superb golf course and fantastic meals overlooking its grounds.

For those wishing to rest their weary muscles, a trip into Kitzbuhel is a must. Dating back more than 700 years, this city of 9,000 inhabitants offers a host of multi-coloured attractions - including the buildings, where strict rules govern what colour you can paint your facade.

Highlights include the Pfleghof - the former country squire's home - the town hall and the birthplace of Toni Sailor, three-times Olympic champion skier.

But if the heat and the mountains leave you flagging, head for the nearby Schwarzee, one of the warmest and most beautiful bathing lakes in the Alps, which reputedly has healing properties.

In short, Austria doesn't have everything, nowhere does. But if you want fresh air, picture-postcard scenery and not a straw donkey or Irish pub in sight, then Kitzbuhel is for you.