Traditional Tunisia
13:22, 15 October 2010
updated: 13:22, 15 October 2010
Legend has it Dido, queen of Carthage, killed herself after the love of her life Aeneas left her heartbroken.
Virgil may have had a good imagination, but looking around Carthage, which is now located in Tunisia, it’s hard to believe Dido would have let the loss of a man tear her away from her beautiful kingdom.
Standing in the ruins of the ancient city in the blazing heat I can see out to the Mediterranean Sea, the blue of which gleams in the way you only thought you saw in films.
Visitors to Carthage may be arrested by the view but there is plenty more to see. The tour guide, looking cool as a cucumber in a shirt, jumper and suit jacket while I swelter in the 30 degree heat that is the Tunisian winter, shows us around the remains of Roman villas and temples before leading us into the magnificent cathedral on the site.
The ruins at Carthage are magnificent, but put to shame by those at Dougga, two hours away from Tunis. The World Heritage Site features an almost perfect temple, examples of Roman baths and dozens of smaller buildings. More stunning is the knowledge all the countryside seen from the site contains more remains, which cannot be excavated because the land is privately owned.
All that sight-seeing is bound to make a person hungry, but any Tunisian restaurant will soon take care of that. Every meal starts with mezze, a selection of breads, olives, pastries, dips and salads that are brought out to your table as soon as you sit down.
Many restaurants in the coastal area called Sidi Bou Said - beautiful views and the place where all the rich folks park their yatchs - tend to have fish dishes as the centrepiece. Top restaurants don’t skimp on food, and the portions are more than adequate for even those with the biggest appetites. For a relaxed but upscale dining experience try Le Pirate in Sidi Bou Said, which has exquisite views of the sea, brilliant service and amazing food.
For the royal treatment try Le Grande Bleu in Gammarth, which is familiar to all VIPs visiting the area. The slightly tacky decor - think pastel colours, Art Deco lamps and gothic chandeliers - is more than made up for by the food and the gorgeous outdoor dining area which also doubles as a dance floor.
Traditional Tunisian food is one gift to take back home, but there are plenty of shopping areas where you can find something for every family member and friend.
Head to the medina, or old town, where you’ll find a maze of alleyways containing small shops selling everything from scarves and traditional Tunisian hats to olive oil and spices to carpets and knick knacks. Store owners will try to entice you in but can take the hint when you don’t want to shop, making it a fun but not threatening experience, particularly for women. Should you see something you like remember to bargain, as prices can drop by three quarters in a matter of seconds.
While you’re in the medina take a few minutes away from shopping to visit Ez-Zitouna Mosque. Stepping inside there is an air of calm and quiet even in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the city.
Head to the regular market in the centre of the medina, where Tunisians do much of their food shopping. Here there are tables full of fresh fruit, fish caught that morning and plants and trees of all kinds. Make sure to go there while you’re hungry, because you will get bombarded with samples of cheese, olives and dates, and it’s impossible to say no.
For a more modern shopping experience go to Avenue Bourguiba, built by the French during their occupation of Tunisia and looking eerily similar to the Champs Elysee.
At the end of a hard day of shopping, site-seeing and eating what better way to relax than stay in a luxury hotel. The four-star Hotel Les Berges Du Lac Concorde (tunis.concorde-hotels.com) is set next to the water and is in an up and coming development funded by a Saudi prince.
For a night of pure luxury head to The Residence in La Marsa (www.theresidence.com), the home of royalty and politicians when they come to Tunis. I would happily stay in a flea-ridden youth hostel for a week just to save enough money to spend one night here. Walking in you are greeted with the smell of jasmine and orange blossom and the site of two giant palm trees which have been transported all the way from Miami.
The sprawling grounds include a huge outdoor swimming pool, an 18-hole golf course and a private beach.
Inside it’s worth trying out the hammam, the Tunisian version of a steam room but better, and the indoor pool, which is filled with sea water. For a real treat try out one of the multitude of beauty treatments on offer. It’s the perfect way to relax before heading home, and will leave you with nothing but pleasant memories of Tunisia.
For more details on trips to Tunisia, visit www.cometotunisia.co.uk. Tunisair (www.tunisair.com) flies into Tunis and to other airports in Tunisia regularly.
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