We walked through the Medway valley from Wateringbury to East Farleigh and Yalding
16:08, 25 August 2023
updated: 12:46, 05 December 2023
When it comes to judging a countryside walk, there are a few factors I usually take into consideration. Is the route well served by public transport, can I expect some glorious scenery, and will my path lead me past the door of a welcoming inn or two?
Based on this checklist, I have to say that a stroll along and around the Medway valley to the west of Maidstone is pretty much close to perfection.
I had initially had my eye on another spot for my latest amble around the Garden of England.
But the idea has sprung from the pages of a decade-old book of Kentish pub walks, and some cursory research revealed the majority of the pubs on the route have sadly closed since publication. A late change of plan was required.
Given my previous point about transport links, my mind was drawn immediately to the countryside between Paddock Wood and the County Town, where trains on the Medway Valley Line hug the river as they snake their way through one village after another.
A few years ago I had walked the riverside path between East Farleigh and Maidstone, a journey I recalled with some fondness, so I decided to start my latest exploration a little further up stream at Wateringbury – a short ride from a change of trains at Paddock Wood.
The plan was to follow the river as far as East Farleigh, before turning south and west towards Yalding, a route which would afford some fine views of the valley through which I had earlier passed.
Options for pub visits on the way seemed well catered for, meaning every point on my checklist for a decent rural stroll would be ticked off.
My train pulled into Wateringbury station shortly after 10am, and from here it is just a short hop to join the riverside path.
This stretch of the Medway is extremely popular with owners of pleasure cruisers and houseboats, which give the stretches alongside the water plenty of interest for the nosy to admire the vessels and their occasionally elaborate moorings.
Not long into the walk, and you’ll soon come to the rather lovely Teston Bridge Country Park, which takes its name – you’ll be shocked to hear – from the impressive Teston Bridge which crosses the Medway here.
This well-preserved medieval multi-span bridge, which is Grade I listed, really is an impressive sight and a genuine highlight of the walk.
Built in Kentish ragstone around the 15th century, it is designated a Scheduled Monument and was first listed in 1928.
The riverside path passes through its arches, giving ample opportunity to marvel at the enduring nature of such an ancient structure.
East Farleigh lies not far beyond Teston and is itself centred around another fine example of medieval engineering. The ragstone bridge here is narrow, allowing traffic to pass only in one direction at a time, so for pedestrians there is care to be taken when crossing.
Once over the river and heading south, the road climbs steeply upwards and I am grateful for the sight of a bench dedicated to the memory of former village publican Leonard Jeffreys.
I do take the opportunity to – in the words of the memorial plaque – ‘rest awhile and be thankful’.
Now heading away from the river below, it’s time to consult a map and plot the course for the next few miles.
Just a short way away through the gently rolling countryside is the Good Intent at West Farleigh, which our very own Secret Drinker has previously hailed as a no-nonsense community pub. Sounds go to me and I strike out in that direction.
The way from here is a mixture of country lanes and the odd footpath through and around fields, one of which is filled with a slowly maturing crop of pumpkins which I expect will be ripe for picking come Halloween.
The scenery is typically Kentish, at one point providing the bucolic vista of the tops of oast houses and a church spire poking up just beyond a pear orchard.
Finally the path emerges from the fields and spits me out on The Green, with the Good Intent standing welcomingly on the far side.
Being a Wednesday lunchtime, and the pub having just opened for the day, it is quiet inside.
I am furnished with a fine example of Harvey’s Sussex Best and retire to a shaded table outside to rest awhile before the next leg of my journey towards Yalding.
Shortly after setting out again, I find myself at the foot of Smith’s Hill and dodging a steady stream of traffic on what is still little more than a country lane.
This makes my mind up and I decide to take a rather more circuitous route to Yalding along quieter backways, but the sun is out and the views are lovely, so it’s really no chore to put a couple more miles in the legs.
Before long I arrive in Yalding and duck into the Walnut Tree pub for a much-needed bite to eat.
Things are a bit livelier here than at the Good Intent, with a decent lunchtime crowd of drinkers and couples having a bite to eat. I plump for a session ale and a classic pub-grub dish of ham, egg and chips.
The food was just the ticket, and just the hearty meal I needed to fuel the final leg of the walk back northward along the Medway to Wateringbury station.
After passing through the exceedingly pretty centre of Yalding, I skirt by Hampstead Marina, where pleasure crafts drift by lazily with passengers enjoying the warm summer sunshine.
As mentioned earlier, the proximity of the Medway Valley Line means walkers are well served with opportunities to pick up the train on this walk, and I could have brought my day to a close earlier if I’d decided to head to Yalding station. But I was determined to complete the loop starting and finishing in Wateringbury.
Realising it’s going to be tight for the train I need to make a connection at Paddock Wood, so I pick up the pace significantly on this last leg, arriving at the station exhausted but elated.
Close to perfection? I’d say this walk is hard to beat. Particularly if you are not a seasoned hiker and don’t like the idea of yomping over huge distances in the middle of nowhere.
Let the train take the strain, walk from one village to the next, and then decide if you want to go further or simply want to call it a day and head home. Or stop off at one of the numerous pubs which dot this corner of the county. All in all a wonderful spot, and one I reckon I’ll return to again and again.
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