The last time I visited the Ship Hotel in New Romney I was camping just up the road in the affectionately re-named village of ‘Grymchurch’.

The place has certainly changed a fair bit over the years and this time we had the choice of sitting inside, in the conservatory or outside.

It seems much larger than I remember, so either my memory is failing or various renovations over the decades have cleverly included previously unused space.

My eyes were still adjusting to the dark interior by the time Mrs SD had headed through the series of double doors on the back of the conservatory. So I guessed a) we were eating outside and b) I was being trusted to place our order at the bar.

The sun was shining brightly outside so I decided to try a pint of 4.5% Summer Storm. This claims to be an IPA but it seemed more like bitter to me.

It cost £4.40, though the barmaid did kindly inform me it would have been 90p cheaper had it been happy hour. Mrs SD’s large glass of white was £7.

When it came to the food we weren’t looking for full-on meals, so I ordered us each a baguette – steak and Stilton for me, sausage with onion rings for her. I knew they weren’t going to be cheap as they were listed as ‘rustic’ baguettes, but just shy of £21 for the pair seemed steep.

The barmaid who served me was cheery enough and welcoming, but the other staff on duty weren’t quite on message and appeared a little surly.

I settled up there and then as I was informed tabs are not allowed. Whether this is just for folks sitting outside I’m not sure, but the couple of baguettes with two drinks set me back over £32, so presumably they were also guarding against me doing a runner.

The pub has clearly undergone a fairly major renovation. According to the staff it was done up about five years ago - and, to be fair, it does look okay, if a bit tatty and uncared for in parts.

The vast majority of the pub is laid out for dining. There’s no darts, no pool and no jukebox. In fact, there was no music at all while we were in, apart that is, from the gents where it was being pumped out at a heck of a volume.

The toilets themselves were absolutely fine, fresh and sweet smelling enough. Although the aroma as you left the facilities was incredible - I think the hotel laundry was next door and the fabric softener was to die for.

By the time I returned to my alfresco seat in the sunshine the food had arrived and I have to admit the first bite of my steak baguette was a huge disappointment.

The steak was decidedly gristly and the ‘Stilton’ it was served with was more of a sauce, a sort of weak Stilton mayo if you will. The skin-on fries were better and the best part of the meal, but even these were positively cool by the time they arrived.

Even a quick glance around the inside of the pub will let you know there must be some history attached to this one.

I enquired but the barmaid just said she assumes it’s "very, very old - maybe even a hundred". Being fair, anything, including yours truly, is going to look ancient to one of such tender years.

Her manager upped the estimate to the 1600s but said she thought there was a board out front with some details. I took a closer look and it turns out this haunt, favoured by smugglers, was actually built in 1492.

That the staff have a knowledge of their pub’s history may not be crucial, but I can’t help feeling it’s somehow symptomatic of their general feeling about working there.

The pub has plenty of character and nice features, not to mention a number of picturesque fireplaces, but it could be so much better.

And similarly, whilst the staff just about did what was required of them, they never looked like they were going to put themselves out.

There was certainly no service with a smile and the food is sadly very standard, particularly given the price – all of which is a great shame as it could be so much better.

I hadn’t visited The Ship for a good few years - the Apprentice had only just started school - but remembered it fondly and was hoping it would live up to my good memories. Sadly it hasn’t stood the test of time.

The Ship, 83 High Street, New Romney TN28 8AZ

Decor: The front bar was empty while we were in but it looked fine for a pint or two, although the vast majority of the place is set out for dining. Outside it all looked a little unloved and shabby - I was almost tempted to do a little weeding for them. **

Drink: I’m assuming what it said on the tap was what I got served, but the Summer Storm wasn’t the great seasonal IPA I was seeking. The wine was chilled and ‘wasn’t that bad’ according to the oracle. **

Price: The price of the drinks, £4.40 a pint and £7 for wine, isn’t astronomical, but £21 for a brace of very average baguettes is too hefty by half. **

Food: It arrived fairly quickly and I wish they’d taken more time. The steak baguette was particularly poor quality and it felt as if the fries had been sitting on a tray waiting to be served - likewise the coleslaw in a pot in the fridge. *

Staff: Our barmaid was fine but it looked as if several of the other staff members had got out of bed on the wrong side. I felt a little sorry for the lady served after me as she was treated brusquely at best. **

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