Almost exactly a year ago, I made a trip to review a bistro where the headline writer picked up on the fact two Diet Cokes, served in the can, set me back £5. Still expensive, I’d argue.

We were also waiting for 20 minutes - during lunchtime - for what was supposed to be a ‘quick bite’.

However, the food (when it arrived) was great, the decor lovely and I left a happy diner.

A mere six months after that visit, Jules in Birchington’s bustling Station Road keeled over and died after a director called it quits and the house of cards toppled over. Despite my (minor) gripes, it had accrued a five-star Tripadvisor rating during its short life.

Its demise was a shame, no doubt, but then, lo, word spread that a new eatery was to emerge in its place - this time offering a Greek twist.

And on Monday, from the ashes of Jules rose Maria’s Kitchen - a new family-run cafe from those with their roots in Greece itself.

Is it unfair to review them on day two then, I hear you ask? Maybe. But it is worth getting a sense of the direction in which they are moving and whether it has the potential to succeed when Jules did not? I’d say yes.

So everything which follows is caveated with the fact it’s likely to evolve its offering as it finds its feet.

Firstly, aside from a fresh lick of paint, and less plant life, the bones of this place have been kept almost identical to its predecessor. The big, sturdy wooden tables remain - ditto the leather sofa in the window - and the swanky ‘industrial’ lighting.

There is, however, Greek music playing gently in the background and a couple of units offering takeaway treats such as sausage rolls and spinach pies. I’m reliably informed, more Greek treats and cakes are coming.

The day menu is something of a bizarre blend of all-day breakfasts (Birchington is not short of such outlets offering big plates of fry-ups) and Greek-inspired food. An evening menu looks impressive with a full Greek line-up and sensible prices too.

The good news, I notice, is that the price of a Coke has been slashed by 20% (now a more reasonable £2) and the amount of time from ordering to food arriving by 50%.

Is the food better though?

I order the enticing-sounding Mediterranean Mackerel Platter (£10.50) and hope to be transported back a few years to when I was last in Athens and chomping my way through the magnificent food the city has to offer.

So I must admit I am a trifle disappointed when what arrives - while undoubtedly generous - is not quite as authentic as I’d hoped. The presentation is a little lacking - a lack of confidence in its early days perhaps? - with each element having its clear lines of demarcation. Some will probably like that though.

The mackerel looks suspiciously like the vacuum-packed ones you buy in the supermarket. Perhaps they were caught in Greek waters originally. Who knows?

Greek salads are one of its finest exports, so I’m a little disappointed this comes with shredded lettuce (a superfluous space-filler in my opinion) - but there’s plenty of stuff going on here; onion, tomato, cucumber, herbs that elevate it up. The cheese, though, is cheddar rather than feta, which seems an odd choice.

Gherkins aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I’m partial to them - ditto pickled onions - and it’s rounded off with a small dish of olives (which are OK but there are far nicer to be had). To the side there’s some thin slices of sough dough bread which are crisp and gently softened by butter. Tasty.

I wash it all down with a Greek frappe - never tried one before and probably, if truth be told, won’t be rushing to try another. It’s short on the sweetness (at point of creation) it needs to elevate it to an enjoyable level and I’m loathe to add more to spruce it up. A pity, as it looks the part - beautifully thick and creamy. Having recently returned from Vietnam - home of the world’s most magnificent coffees where condensed milk makes everything a diabetic’s nightmare - I may have been spoilt, though.

The staff are attentive and friendly at all times and as I settle up the bill - food and drink for £14 - I must admit I’ve rather warmed to the place.

My bite of what it has to offer in its infancy suggests if it can build and finesse its offering it has a bright future ahead of it.

Scores (out of five):

Food: Every element was tasty but could do with a little more finesse and better presentation. But that will come. A good start and good variety of food ****

Drink: I took a risk with a Greek Frappe, I can’t deny, and it didn’t pay off. But it was reasonably priced and there are plenty of other options. ***

Decor: Taking the ‘it ain’t broke why fix it’ approach, it’s hard to differentiate from its predecessor. But that’s no bad thing as it looks great. It is, though, a bit of a squeeze to get out due to the seating arrangement near the door if a table is occupied. ***

Staff: Couldn’t fault them - friendly and attentive (was asked twice how my meal was within five minutes of the dish arriving) - and quick to take payment too. *****

Price: When stepping into the shoes of an eatery which previously toppled over, pricing is key and, so far at least, I couldn’t fault the prices - very reasonable for generous portions ****