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The Counter by Robin Read in Tunbridge Wells added to Michelin Guide

12:14, 19 October 2024

Kent’s extensive offering of Michelin-rated restaurants continues to grow after another was rewarded with a spot in the prestigious guide.

Inspectors lauded The Counter by Robin Read, in Tunbridge Wells, for its “personable and pleasingly relaxed” service in the “dark and moody restaurant” in its entry on the list.

Robin Read worked and trained with the Roux Brothers and other Michelin-acclaimed eateries. Photo: Stuart Mack
Robin Read worked and trained with the Roux Brothers and other Michelin-acclaimed eateries. Photo: Stuart Mack

Headed up by its namesake, Robin and wife Greta Boccia only opened in May as a “modern-day restaurant” in a 200-year-old Georgian building in the heart of the town.

Michelin bosses said of the newly established venue: “Considering its name, it may come as a surprise to learn that there are actually only four counter seats at this dark and moody restaurant on a leafy street.

“Those spots are very much the prized tickets here however, as not only do they give you a great view of the action, but they also allow you to order two exclusive extra courses.

“The eponymous chef roots his cooking in local producers, crafting dishes that shine a spotlight on the top-quality central ingredients like succulent Sussex chicken – even the wine list features some nearby growers.

“The service is personable and pleasingly relaxed.”

Inside The Counter in Tunbridge Wells, under chef Robin Read. Photo: Stuart Mack
Inside The Counter in Tunbridge Wells, under chef Robin Read. Photo: Stuart Mack

The inclusion of The Counter now brings Kent’s tally up to 24, with recent addition Sète in Cliftonville, Margate, joining well-known culinary giants such as The Sportsman in Seasalter and Boys Hall, Ashford.

Robin Read, an ex-Firmdale Hotel Group executive chef, began his cooking career at the age of 16 with work experience at the Roux brothers’ London patisserie, where he trained in 1990.

He went on to train as a sous chef at Chez Nico under the late Nicola Ladenis – which boasted three Michelin stars - before working with Marco Pierre White at Mirabelle, where he became head chef and retained their one Michelin star.

Robin - who oversaw six new Firmdale openings, including four hotels, a bakery and training academy - has also spent time in the kitchens at Le Gavroche, The Square and Restaurant Paul Heathcote, all of which boasted two stars.

The menu at The Counter offers a choice of five, eight and 10-course tasting menus costing £60, £95 and £125 and includes dishes such as cured mackerel croustade with broccoli puree, Birchen asparagus and seaweed.

The Counter is the latest Kent representative in the Michelin Guide. Photo: Stuart Mack
The Counter is the latest Kent representative in the Michelin Guide. Photo: Stuart Mack
The “dark and moody restaurant” was praised. Photo: Stuart Mack
The “dark and moody restaurant” was praised. Photo: Stuart Mack

In keeping with his vision for a local and seasonal menu, Robin works with small, independent farmers and growers, with suppliers including Kentish fruit and vegetables from T H Brown & Son, fish from Chapmans in Sevenoaks, meat from Fullers Butchers in Eridge and charcuterie from Beal’s.

The wine programme, headed up by Greta, is a curated edit of English and European wines alongside English spirits such as Hepple gin and vodka and Vault vermouth and botanical spirits.

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