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Travel review: Exploring the Pontic Mountains in Bayburt, Turkey

14:45, 07 September 2023

updated: 15:12, 07 September 2023

Exploring the roads less travelled, a recent trip away was the perfect sensory feast, combining historical richness and awe-inspiring beauty to show off the authentic charm of Turkey.

To spend a few days tucked away in the middle of a mountain range in the rural parts of Turkey, where beaches and hair transplants are nowhere to be found, may not quite be what people expect from the Eurasian country.

The Loru Han hotel in Bayburt, Turkey
The Loru Han hotel in Bayburt, Turkey

Embarking on an unconventional journey, my recent escape proved to be a sensory delight, unveiling Turkey's authentic charm through a tapestry of history and natural beauty.

Nestled deep within the rural heart of the Pontic Mountains, far removed from the bustling beaches and cosmetic surgeries associated with the country, this adventure promised an offbeat Turkish experience.

The journey began at the Loru Han Hotel, a charming boutique establishment cradled within the Pontic Mountains' heart, 1,500 meters above sea level.

Stepping through its doors was akin to entering a sanctuary of Turkish warmth and hospitality. The hotel's decor, marrying rustic elements with elegant touches, conjured a cosy and inviting ambience that enveloped us.

The real showstopper, however, was the hotel's rooms, where we were greeted by jaw-dropping panoramas.

Expansive windows flooded the space with natural light, revealing the grandeur of the surrounding Pontic Mountains.

Sat 1,500 metres above sea level with a lot more to offer
Sat 1,500 metres above sea level with a lot more to offer
One of the rooms on display at the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
One of the rooms on display at the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
Things can feel a bit isolated in the Pontic Mountains
Things can feel a bit isolated in the Pontic Mountains

Gazing upon this breathtaking sight each morning was an experience in itself, a gentle reminder of the awe-inspiring world waiting to be explored.

Guiding our adventure with meticulous precision was Kamel, our tour guide, an expert in the intricacies of his home region.

Our journey led us to the Sümela Monastery, a marvel carved into the mountain's side more than a millennium ago. The legends surrounding its construction, inspired by a dream of the Virgin Mary, captivated our imaginations.

Bayburt Castle, a relic of the past left to decay by the locals but now experiencing a renaissance, offered a window into the region's historical, present, and future narratives.

The importance of preserving these legends and heritage was palpable.

Returning to our hotel, the culinary delights of the hotel's restaurant, as well as the local eateries we explored, celebrated flavours crafted from locally sourced ingredients.

Some of the technology up for display at the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
Some of the technology up for display at the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
The Loru Han hotel is located next to the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
The Loru Han hotel is located next to the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum
The scenery is genuinely inspiring
The scenery is genuinely inspiring

Among these gastronomic wonders was the unique Mihlama, a delectable melted cheese and cornmeal concoction.

Yet, it wasn't just the food but also the humble friendliness of the locals that made dining in rural Turkey an unforgettable experience.

Bayburt itself is a treasure trove of history, and a visit to the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum was a captivating journey into the past.

The museum's exhibits, housed in historic-looking buildings, wove a tapestry of Turkish culture and heritage. In preparation for the local harvest festival, we gained insight into the lives of the region's inhabitants through displays of traditional clothing, kitchenware, and artefacts.

Naturally, no exploration of Bayburt would be complete without immersing ourselves in the natural wonders of the Pontic Mountains.

Towering peaks, dense forests, and crystalline rivers painted a landscape that seemed plucked from the pages of a fairy tale.

It's a very peaceful way of life in the mountains
It's a very peaceful way of life in the mountains
Bayburt is a bustling city a few minutes away from the tranquility of the mountains
Bayburt is a bustling city a few minutes away from the tranquility of the mountains
Dogs roam freely and soak up the precious shade
Dogs roam freely and soak up the precious shade

We embarked on serene walks, inhaling the crisp mountain air and savouring the serenity of our surroundings.

As night fell, we laid out blankets for stargazing under the exceptionally clear and luminous sky.

One of the most unforgettable moments of our journey transpired as we witnessed the sunset over the mountain range.

From our vantage point near Loru Han, the sky transformed into a canvas painted with hues of pink and orange as the sun gracefully dipped behind the towering peaks.

This surreal and soul-stirring spectacle encapsulated the raw beauty of nature, revealing a lesser-known Turkey that beckoned us to connect with it in the most profound manner.

However, transcending the simple joy of watching the skies, our travels took an intriguing turn with our visit to Karaca Cave, situated approximately 11 miles from the small city of Gümüşhane.

There's a vast range of wildlife to be observed
There's a vast range of wildlife to be observed
Karaca Cave is in a world of its own
Karaca Cave is in a world of its own
Some of the stunning views on offer
Some of the stunning views on offer
Limni Lake is tucked away peacefully in the mountain range
Limni Lake is tucked away peacefully in the mountain range

This cave, hidden for centuries and only rediscovered in the 1980s, held within its winding passages a mesmerizing display of intricate stalactites and stalagmites. These formations, sculpted over millennia, enchanted us with their ethereal beauty.

Yet, Karaca Cave possessed more than mere visual splendour. It harboured a rich historical legacy, evidenced by ancient human habitation within its chambers, adding a layer of intrigue to its natural charm.

The cave even boasted its own microclimate, with clean, crisp air that invigorated our senses, making our underground exploration all the more enchanting.

In sum, our journey through Bayburt, Turkey, was a harmonious blend of culture, history, and natural beauty.

The Loru Han Hotel served as our welcoming introduction to the region, while the Kenan Yavuz Ethnography Museum delved deep into Turkey's cultural heritage.

The Pontic Mountains, with their breathtaking vistas, provided a magnificent backdrop that elevated our entire experience.

No wonder they call the Pontic the Alps of Turkey
No wonder they call the Pontic the Alps of Turkey
The scenery is genuinely incredible
The scenery is genuinely incredible

Bayburt remains a hidden gem, a treasure trove of authentic Turkish experiences waiting to be shared with the world.

The tourist board's eagerness to showcase this undiscovered facet of Turkey is entirely justified—it would be a disservice not to unveil these hidden treasures to the global traveler.

How to get there: Pegasus Airlines fly from Stansted to Trabzon via Istanbul for £83 on a one-way fare. After that, renting a private car would be best. Check flypgs.com for more details.

Where to stay: The most impressive hotel was the Loru Han hotel, which can be found here. One night generally costs in the region of £65 and can host a family.

Where to eat: A lot of the places we ate happened to be extensions of hotels or resorts, but there’s no shortage of food to go round at the Loru Han or nearby – this far out it’s all part of an authentic experience.

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