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Review: Tunisia intrigues visitors with its history and culture and excites the taste buds with its food – and then there’s the fabulous beaches

11:59, 31 May 2023

updated: 12:45, 06 June 2023

What better way to start a journey of discovery in Tunisia than the capital’s medieval ‘old city’ where a feast of gastronomy, history and culture awaits.

Wander through the labyrinth of narrow, cobbled back streets of the Tunis Medina and you’ll pass a myriad of pretty, colourful doors embedded in the ancient walls.

Pretty doorways are a familiar sight in Tunis Medina
Pretty doorways are a familiar sight in Tunis Medina

Behind one of them reveals the beautiful, historic Dar Ben Gacem guest house where I have a lunch invitation.

But it seems my hosts want me to join in both the sourcing and preparation of local produce for the feast.

So before I am let loose in the kitchen, it’s off through the bustling streets to the Medina’s extraordinary food market with guest house receptionist and food technology student Yousef to buy lamb, cous cous, vegetables and salad.

The market showcases the spectacular abundance of regional farm produce from fresh meat and fish to vegetables and fruit – at prices you can only dream of in UK supermarkets.

The food market in Tunis Medina is bursting with fresh produce. Photo: Jules Annan
The food market in Tunis Medina is bursting with fresh produce. Photo: Jules Annan
Fresh bread off to the market. Photo: Jules Annan
Fresh bread off to the market. Photo: Jules Annan

Back at the guest house and the hosts casually mention that Jamie Oliver was cooking at the very same marble table just a couple of weeks earlier – so, no pressure.

He was here to sample and celebrate the country’s food and cook for a forthcoming show, due to be screened on Channel 4 in September.

Gerry Warren helps prepare a traditional lamb dish under the watchful eye of a chef who knows what they are doing. Photo: Jules Annan
Gerry Warren helps prepare a traditional lamb dish under the watchful eye of a chef who knows what they are doing. Photo: Jules Annan

Jamie was always going to be a tough act to follow and soon my hosts’ expectations of this new ‘cook’ come crashing down to earth as I join chef Amel in cutting up the vegetables, which quickly exposes my less than dextrous knife skills.

Fortunately, she is very patient, and miraculously, despite my amateur efforts, we produce a sumptuous dish of spiced, slow-cooked lamb with cous cous, peppers and potatoes – a Tunisian classic.

Lamb, cous cous and peppers - nearly all my own work
Lamb, cous cous and peppers - nearly all my own work

I had early made a ham-fisted attempt at the ‘starter’, the traditional brik.

Briks are a thin, deep-fried filo pastry, in a pancake style with an egg added to the middle of a spicy tuna or mince filling before shallow frying, which I discover needs a delicate touch – not just to cook but also eat.

Dar Ben Gacem has seven traditionally-appointed guest rooms surrounding a beautiful 17th courtyard where the cooking takes place and meals are served.

The beautiful courtyard in Dar Ben Gacem is perfect for alfresco dining
The beautiful courtyard in Dar Ben Gacem is perfect for alfresco dining

It’s remarkable value too at £50 a night per room including breakfast, especially given its location in the heart of the vibrant old town.

Tourists are, of course, spoilt for choice when it comes to Mediterranean hot spots and beautiful beaches.

Tunis has them in abundance too but there’s so much more to the country with its fascinating history, landscapes, food and culture.

The base for our stay is the five-star El Mouradi Hotel in the Tunis suburb of Gammarth.

It’s a modern, slick, facility-packed hotel with four restaurants and a spa backing onto a private beach boasting the biggest swimming pool I’ve ever seen, as well as a heated indoor one for chillier days.

The stunning pool at the El Mouradi Hotel in the Tunis suburb of Gammarth.
The stunning pool at the El Mouradi Hotel in the Tunis suburb of Gammarth.

A week in late June for two (hotel only) costs around £650 with breakfast but there are plenty of other alternatives and packages for those on a budget.

For example, Easyjet, Love Holidays and Tui, are all offering a variety of good value packages, including all inclusive, at the popular beach resorts from around £500 a week if you can get away in June.

But most offer excursions to the historic sites to break up the days on the beach and immerse yourself in the history and archaeology.

Colonised by the French in 1881, Tunisia gained independence in 1956. But the French influence remains in some of its architecture, street names and language which is widely spoken, alongside Arabic.

The country boasts 10 Unesco world heritage sites including the Tunis Medina, Carthage, Amphitheatre of El Jem, Ichkeul National Park, Sousse Medina, the Punic town of Kerkuane and Dougga, which is arguably the finest and most complete Roman site in Africa.

Over the years, the settings have been the location choice for film makers for movies like Monty Python’s Life of Brian, Star Wars and Raiders of the Lost Ark.

A towering landmark is the remains of the 80-mile Roman Aqueduct of Carthage which once brought water from the mountains to the heart of Tunis.

The remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water from the mountains to the city. Photo: Jules Annan
The remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water from the mountains to the city. Photo: Jules Annan

Tunisia offers not only crystal clear seas lapping beautiful sandy beaches - from where on a clear day you can see Sicily - but also mountains, deserts and a fascinating history.

Tunisia boasts many beautiful sandy beaches
Tunisia boasts many beautiful sandy beaches

Next on our schedule is a visit to a very unique shop selling one of Tunisia’s finest and internationally renown products – olive oil.

Riviere d’Or – or river of gold – is in Tunisa’s new town of Les Berges du Lac where you’d think you’d walked into a high class Paris perfumery.

It not only showcases the many olive oils produced but also the extra ordinary bottles they come in, making it a truly premium product.

Founded in 1928 by Abdessalem Louedi senior, Riviere d’Or is now run with a continued passion by the fourth generation of the family, including sisters Nouha and Mariem Louedi.

Sisters Nouha and Mariem Louedi in their spectacular Riviere d'Or olive oil showroom in Tunis
Sisters Nouha and Mariem Louedi in their spectacular Riviere d'Or olive oil showroom in Tunis

They enthusiastically explain the organic care taken in nurturing the trees on their farms and the cold pressing process which produces the finest olive oils.

Not only has Riviere d’Or won numerous international prizes for its oils, but also for the beauty of its bottles and packaging of its high end offerings, including one bottle in a dipped gold casket.

And yet it remains remarkable value, in Tunisia at least, costing just £12 for it premium organic extra virgin olive oil from its private estate collection. You could probably treble that if it was ever sold in Harrods.

Of course, sampling of the oils followed – this stuff is surely far too good to cook with – and we eagerly dipped in our crusty bread for a truly special taste.

Our whirlwind visit then took us to a sustainable almond farm on the outskirts of Tunis which also hosts guests in characterful accommodation surrounded by nature.

The Dar Zaghouan almond farm and garden offers guests peaceful stay in beautiful garden surroundings
The Dar Zaghouan almond farm and garden offers guests peaceful stay in beautiful garden surroundings

Dar Zaghouan has 10 acres including botanical gardens from where flowers are used to produce beauty products and teas.

Host Ramzi says the farm is currently 70% sustainable but with the installation of further solar panels in the future, is aiming for 100% autonomy.

We enjoy a typical Tunisian feast overlooking gardens and a swimming pool.

With its 20 guest rooms, Dar Zaghouan is claimed to be Tunisia’s first eco hotel and accommodation is available from just £50 a night.

It’s a tranquil place filled with the scents of nature and perfect for families or couples where you buy beauty products and delicous bread and cakes made on the farm.

A visit to the ancient ruins and archaeological site of Carthage should be on any visitor’s agenda with an interest in history.

It was founded in the 9th century and later became the major city of the Roman Empire in the province of Africa.

We wandered around the ruins, which frankly could have done with a little more explanation but, sadly, the museum itself was closed on the day of our visit.

One of the prettiest locations near Tunis has to be the stunning clifftop village of Sidi Bou Said overlooking the Mediterranean.

The pretty view from Sidi Bou Said
The pretty view from Sidi Bou Said

Its narrow cobbled streets are filled with its pristine whitewashed buildings, all with blue doors and shutters, which apparently is a local legal planning requirement to maintain the village character.

But you’d be forgiven for thinking you were walking through a typical Greek setting.

One home owner who decided to paint his property pink, promptly found it repainted white by the authorities and handed the bill, says our guide.

The bustling streets are filled with artisans selling crafts, who are refreshingly more polite than pushy, and street cafes where you can sip strong Arabic coffee and watch the world go by.

The markets are filled with tempting goods - and their owners not too pushy. Photo: Jules Annan
The markets are filled with tempting goods - and their owners not too pushy. Photo: Jules Annan

There’s a choice of restaurants too with meals available from as little as £7 – a pleasant surprise given its popularity.

Yes, it might be a little touristy for those who prefer to go off the beaten track, but is nonetheless enjoyable.

Just 15 minutes drive from central Tunis, it’s also chic place to stay in one of the several boutique hotels and also offers a pretty beach.

On the subject of driving, I suggest not hiring a car if you’re the least bit nervous behind the wheel.

The locals know how it works and where they’re going but it’s likely to be a buttock-clenching experience at the wheel otherwise.

Besides, buses and taxis are very cheap, but book the latter through your hotel, if possible.

Of course, if you want a break lounging by the pool or on the beach, you’ll be well served in Tunisia.

But the country has much more to offer, especially those with an interest in ancient history and culture.

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