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Secret Drinker reviews Thorley Taverns pub Barnacles in Margate
05:00, 18 November 2022
updated: 08:19, 18 November 2022
Someone, somewhere once said: "If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again." And someone else, who reckoned patience was a virtue, said: "All good things come to those who wait."
Well shiver me timbers, after three failed attempts I finally found myself sitting at the bar in Barnacles and loving every minute of it.
My first effort to find a pub in Margate saw me turn towards the station.
But that only brought me to a Brewers Fayre, which really doesn’t count - and, sadly, although the pub sign for the Flag & Whistle still hangs proudly, the place is now half tattoo parlour, half barbers.
Onwards through the town and up the hill I spied The Britannia but this patriotically-painted boozer closed its doors for the final time in 2020.
Walking back down the hill, another pub sat just back off the main drag, but was also boarded up.
The website for Sheps’ Northern Belle says it’s open Thursday to Sunday, but it looked locked up tight to me.
Finally, I found my Margate nirvana in the form of a Thorley Taverns boozer with no pretences which does exactly what it says on the tin.
Barnacles on King Street is a proper pub and once I’d swerved the 30 or so empty barrels to get through the door I immediately felt at home.
Manager Nigel, who’s been in charge here for a mere 30 years or so, was putting trainee barmaid Grace through her paces.
As well as showing her where everything was, how to pour a pint and the basics of the till, he also encouraged her to learn the names of several regulars.
Mind you, it wasn’t too hard for her as the pub’s kingpin, around which everything else revolves, had already introduced Mrs SD and me to several of them – what a genial host.
Regular Chris at the bar was on the Stella and we also discussed the merits of Hurlimann (or in its original form, not to mention strength, Hooligan).
In the end I chose a pint of She Sells Sea Shells, a very decent drop from Thanet's Gadds Brewery describing itself as a Sunshine Ale.
Mrs SD went for the usual large Sav Blanc and we were immediately signed up as Grace’s first guinea pigs.
By his own admission Nigel’s always slightly on edge while he waits for the big blue beer lorry, as he likes deliveries to go off as smoothly as everything else in his pub.
Keeping it in the family, son Mitch was also behind the bar as his dad was about to finish his morning shift before taking a well-earned afternoon break, ready to start again at 7pm.
As soon as Nige was out the door, Mitch hit the switch on the music and we were treated to a few great songs.
He joked that his dad is too twitchy pre-delivery for tunes but locals love a little background music.
Even I invested a quid in the jukebox and loved the pre-seasonal note warning what would happen if you peak too early with the Christmas anthems.
Another sign informs you it’s house policy not to allow children in the bar after 6pm – peeking under the sticker I noticed it used to be 8pm.
Nigel wasn’t far down the road before the delivery lorry arrived and, although it was white rather than blue, it was manned by two very experienced draymen who took away all the empties without a murmur.
Everything about this place screams traditional, colourful boozer, from the patterned pub carpet, comfy traditional furniture, two old fruit machines, the blue in the loo, to the brown gloss paint that I reckon I’ve spied in a few other Thorley Tavern boozers.
The toilets too can be described as traditional – both the ladies and gents were superbly maintained and fresh.
This was a Tuesday lunchtime but there were at least a dozen locals enjoying a good number of drinks, even more laughs and everyone was incredibly welcoming to a pair of out-or-towners.
Nigel was in complete control and clearly sets the bar high but he still finds plenty of time to greet, meet and ensure everyone is at ease.
Not only that - he’s clearly instilled the very best hospitality skills in Mitch, whilst still finding time to train and encourage Grace to make a great start to her bartending.
Barney’s, as it’s known to locals, has been in the best possible hands for decades and Nigel has lost none of his enthusiasm for either the town, the pub or, most importantly, the people who walk through his door.
Barnacles, 1 King Street, Margate CT9 1DD
Decor: The wood panelling reminded me of several other Thorley pubs and gave the whole place a warm welcoming feel. I can even forgive the trademark brown gloss. ****
Drink: The 4.7% She Sells from Gadds was as good as everything else from that brewery and Mrs SD really rated her wine. ****
Price: The Sunshine Ale bitter was £4.10 and a large Sav Blanc £6.70, A Stella or a Kronie cost £5.20 a pint. Crisps are a slightly hefty £1.20 a bag but they were the best I’ve sampled for ages and well worth it. ****
Staff: Ably marshalled by the experienced, and cheery, Nigel. Even Grace, who’d only worked a couple of hours, was doing a great job. And, it was also a pleasure to meet and, later, be served by Mitch. *****
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