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Secret Drinker reviews Shepherd Neame’s Dog & Bear Hotel in Lenham Square
17:20, 09 November 2023
updated: 08:10, 15 November 2023
Sitting pretty on Lenham’s village square, I was sure this 17th century hotel, with as many beams as I’ve ever seen in a pub, would have customers to match – some tweed, a wire-haired dog in front of the fire and elderly ladies in sensible shoes.
Instead the Dog & Bear had vapers outside the door, beanies at the bar and shots being downed before half-time in the footie.
The big screen was showing Leicester v Leeds in the Championship and the vast majority of punters in were young fellas, a few with a passing interest in the match, the majority concentrating on downing a good few Friday night pints.
This being a Shep’s establishment I could have taken the hint from the barman’s T-shirt and ordered a Bear Island but, in a brief moment of concern for my exes claim, I chose a pint of Spitfire, assuming it would be the cheap option.
A fiver lighter, I took a seat at a table just in front of a pile of board games with four young guys on cocktails and shots between me and the football.
This example of Shepherd Neame’s classic beer, with its usual amber colour and a decent creamy head, might not be at the top of my ‘go-to’ list, but this was a decent enough pint.
Having settled in and sipped half a pint I was disturbed by a deafening explosion at the bar when one beanie wearer went berserk, leaping up and down and screaming into the faces of all those around him. The outburst came from a highly emotional punter, who apparently had £20 on Leeds to win and celebrated Rutter’s 58th minute goal like a nutcase.
He then proceeded to push his mug into the face of anyone near him and demand to know whether they were a Leicester City fan?
I’m not a Foxes fan, but even if I was, the last thing in the world I would have done is admit.
Once things calmed down I took the opportunity to take a brief tour of this sprawling establishment that’s just a five-minute walk from Lenham station and see what else it had to offer.
At the back, right-hand side of the pub there’s an alcove dedicated to darts with an electronic scoreboard, a notice saying no-one under 16 can play and some very colourful Sheps wallpaper.
Beyond a small, but effective, real fire there was a large dining room on the left, with the vast majority of tables already set for the hotel guests planning to enjoy breakfast.
Through the back door there is a large outside courtyard with about half a dozen round picnic tables and a similar number of decent-sized olive trees. A sign on the facing room marks the hotel’s function room and it’s clear this is a sizable business venue for a smallish village.
A brief visit to the gents revealed a compact, but fully tiled room that was fresh-smelling and well-maintained. My only word of caution would be to anyone using urinal No.1, make sure you duck at the critical moment.
On the walls of the hallway between the main reception area and the bar I discovered a number of interesting black and white photographs showing the Dog & Bear in centuries past.
Back in the bar I spotted a blackboard menu but couldn’t justify spending £14.50 on nachos and decided instead to invest £6.30 in a pint of Birra Moretti.
The chat at the bar had moved away from footie to bikes and one motorcyclist was explaining to the frenzied footie fan, that, given his number of high-speed crashes, he was lucky to have survived to his 48th year.
Following this, for some inexplicable reason, our lucky punter started fiercely slapping the legs of his friends and only stopped after the biker managed to land a well-placed retaliatory strike.
Then, almost on the stroke of 10, the pub pretty much emptied and even one regular, who been threatening to leave for an hour, fell out of the door.
There was talk of several folk ‘heading to the club’ (wherever/whatever that is?) but the village seemed quiet and by the time I departed at 10.15pm and a young fellow, by the name of Russell, was helping to sweep up out front on the pub.
For the record, the football game ended 1-0 and, although it wasn’t quite the Friday night pub visit I was expecting, I quite enjoyed my brief time sharing the Dog & Bear with the lads in the bar.
The Dog & Bear sits alongside the Red Lion, a pub Secret Drinker visited back in 2109. Read the review here
THE DOG & BEAR HOTEL, THE SQUARE, LENHAM ME17 2PG
Decor: More beams than I’ve ever seen in a pub, and the wonderful history of this great building is displayed wherever you look. It’s a good blend of traditional village inn and stylish pub with a large restaurant. ****
Drink: Faced with a decision between Master Brew and Spitfire I’d usually choose lager, but I decided to re-try the latter option and ended up being served a decent pint of amber-coloured Spitfire. The Moretti was exactly as you would expect. ***
Price: At one time, not that long ago, a pint of bitter for a fiver and £6.30 for a lager would seem steep, but from what I see this is now the norm. In future weeks I can see these prices becoming a three-star score. **
Staff: There were two barmen covering the shift, which was plenty of manpower for a reasonably steady Friday evening. They were both pleasant enough and made themselves busy when not actually serving. ****
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