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Secret Drinker reviews The Phoenix pub in Old Dover Road, Canterbury
05:00, 05 July 2024
updated: 13:55, 08 July 2024
Okay, it’s a little out of town, but this was a Saturday night in Canterbury and, even its most ardent fan would have to admit, The Phoenix was as dead as the abandoned Christmas tree outside its back door.
Solitary drinker Mark, a regular who retired here from Watford, was the only person in to provide barman Stewart with some company, so the SD family quadrupled the numbers.
This free house on Old Dover Road is an unusual wedge shape with the narrowest edge facing out to the street and you enter through a side door.
It’s only a stone’s throw from the Spitfire Ground and relies upon Kent County Cricket to bolster its numbers and keep the till recording a decent score.
Barman Mr Alexander, who’s never visited Scotland despite his name, said it had been rammed out with cricket fans the night before despite Kent’s T20 Blast side losing to Essex with 30 balls to spare.
There were plenty of beers available and, prior to deciding, I had a taste of 5% Bullion from the Hopfuzz Brewery. Sadly though, by Stewart’s own admission, it hadn’t been pulled all day and my tester was decidedly vinegary.
Having declined option one I chose a pint of Gadd’s She Sells Sea Shells instead, Which Stewart said the landlord’s son rated, and this was a big improvement.
It being The Euros, the football was showing, on both a screen at the narrow front of the pub and a much bigger projector screen towards the back but no-one ie. regular Mark or barman Stewart, was the slightest interested.
It’s a decent enough, comfortable place, without being slick, and has stripped floorboards, a nice striped wooden bar and a few sofas which look almost as old as the pub cat, which didn’t move a muscle the whole time we were in and was more dead than the pub.
We were seeking a Saturday night meal but food was not currently being served, although Mark did say the landlord’s son does sometimes make pizzas on a Friday and Saturday night.
He says the rest of the time it’s decidedly pub grub on offer which is pinged – a statement backed up when I passed the kitchen and saw a bank of four microwaves stacked up.
As time ticked on Stewart finished his shift and we were joined by the landlord and landlady, Bob and his trouble and strife, Scouser Nilla. Bob took himself off for a spot of kitchen prep while Nilla silently, and as still as the cat, propped up the bar.
There’s a jukebox but it was silent all night, although there was a poster saying The Phoenix regularly hosts live music on a Friday night.
There’s a covered smoking area outside at the back and some steps up to both a decent-sized car park and a small garden area, surrounded by pink climbing roses - just make sure you don’t trip over the old Christmas tree or walk into the fridge.
The toilets are okay, but flatter to deceive a little as they’re not quite as grand as they appear – the radiator, for example, could do with being shown a serious wire brush before being treated to a new coat of paint.
There’s no denying it was quiet for a Saturday evening but I can believe Stewart, who’s having his first summer here after starting at Christmas, when he says it gets incredibly busy when the cricket’s on and there’s also a whole series of traditional touches to admire here.
It’s landlady Nilla’s name over the door and she moved here 13 years ago when Enterprise chose to sell on her previous pub, the Rose & Crown in nearby St Dunstans.
For those who love their history, a pub has stood on the corner of Cossington Road and OId Dover Road since 1874 and was originally called Bridge House Tavern. It changed its name to The Phoenix when, you’ve guessed it, the pub was severely damaged by a fire in 1968 and needed to be rebuilt.
I enjoyed my visit to this traditional, old-fashioned boozer and revelled in the features which have been retained, the fact it was empty on a Saturday didn’t spoil it at all.
However, the SD Apprentice felt it was a shame it wasn’t busier as he reckons it would have been a totally different experience and can imagine the pub has a real buzz when the cricket’s on. It’s no surprise Kent’s fixtures are listed all around the pub.
THE PHOENIX, 67 OLD DOVER ROAD, CANTERBURY CT1 3DB
Decor: Some great traditional touches, like the double-sided wood burner and the two-tone wooden bar, along with a quite a few tattier items. In general though, this is just as a proper pub should be. ****
Drink: Apparently landlord Bob likes to host at least eight real ales, which sounds great, but it might be better to concentrate on keeping fewer decent beers a little better. That said, both the amber Seasider and lighter She Sells Sea Shells were good pints. ****
Price: The pints were all coming in the right side of a fiver, which is a real positive for Canterbury. A large Sauvignon Blanc, a bitter and a pint of ABK lager totalled £16. ****
Staff: Stewart was very welcoming and chatty, a great host. He clearly enjoys working here and is equally happy whether it’s rammed with cricket fans or as quiet as an ancient pub cat. *****
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